China

After living in Hong Kong for the past two months I can say that I have become adjusted to ‘city life.’ That was until our most recent adventures led us to Shenzhen, China. To most, the notion of visiting China seems about as plausible as visiting the moon. Frankly, that idea isn’t too far off. Between the times of arrival and departure, we were in complete sensory overload.

At 2:30 pm, outside the local Circle K, the adventure began. After a short bus ride, minibus 12B to Mong Kok, we found ourselves easily navigating this densely populated area, finding our way to the MTR(subway). Mong Kok, where we live, boasts one of the highest population densities in the world. Not exactly Kershaw, SC.

We boarded the Tsueng Kwan line, and exited 3 stops away at Kowloon Tong. From there another train took us to Lo Wu, on the Chinese boarder. Even with the thousands of others making their way into China, the crossing itself was really easy. Mainland and Hong Kong SAR are separated by a river, after exiting Hong Kong a long enclosed bridge leads you towards the Chinese boarder stop.

Hong Kong is fortunately a bilingual city, making navigation for an English speaker a breeze. Let me assure you, Shenzhen does not extend this courtesy to its English guests. Navigating Shenzhen was about like walking around with your eyes closed. Thankfully, with a few tips, we found our way.

After fighting our way through the body-on-body hustle and bustle, we arrived at our destination. A whole sale market, that literally sells everything from live animals to Gucci.

Before we began shopping our friend Sash, gave us the basic tutorial on how to barter with the shop keepers. The instructions were somewhere between Ninja Kick them, and DEMAND your price. Local shop keepers are notorious for raising their prices in excess of 500%, for their Western customers.

The Market experience left me feeling dazed, and wondering why Id come to this place at all. Then I snapped back, when noticing North Face coats for $20 dollars. Where were the jackets? Placed where you would naturally expect, next to the dried fish, and powdered pork meat.

The smells and sights of the place are what really get you. Imagine an alley packed with boxes, scattered trash, hazy cigarette filled air, and more people than an entrance ramp at a Clemson USC game. At every corner waits a woman who knows two words, “hello” and “missy.” Which they bark at you until receiving a response. Bargaining takes place over a calculator, where the buyer and seller pound and mash the numbers until an agreement is met. While in the building this smell of burnt hair, and tar, lingers throughout. Not to worry, that’s the 8^th floor. Where you’ll find hair saloons and places to receive extensions. Be careful though, these extensions are melted to your real hair using something resembling engine grease. But, Im so glad I sought that smell out… I guess.

All that walking, negotiating, and exploring made me hungry. We decieded to try the local Thai restaurant. . Meeting the other teachers at this local joint, I experienced a family style meal, and tried new and unusual foods. Pork, eel, shrimp were served bones and all. Not to worry, its all edible because they were fried for a period of time that had to have been several days. Everything melted in your mouth. The level of spice was astounding. My mouth was numbed and the watermelon juice was the only reprieve.

Following dinner it was time for the main attraction. THE SPA. Our group decided to stay in The Queens Spa in central Shenzhen. Aside from being the most luxurious and comfortable place I’ve been, it was cheap. I’m talking, head and foot massage, midnight pizza, open fruit bar, 6 million dollar pool, personal locker room assistants, thai massages, and recliners/ beds… all for about $50. How is this possible? Same reason why US industry has flocked to this region--cheap labor. The workers made $200 a month, and all considered their job to be a great find. The experience was astonishing. Literally, 3000 people fit in this place, yet it never seemed crowed. Anything you wanted was delivered to you in a matter of minutes.

So Sara Beth and I ordered foot massages, a glass of wine and some pizza and enjoyed a football game on a movie screen. Pretty cool.

We left Sunday morning feeling refreshed, yet still a bit dazed from what we had just experienced.

Sunday morning, we saw a shocking sight, but something that is all too familiar to local Shenzhenese. Beggars, thousands of them. Covering the streets and hounding any place that could attract tourists. Most disturbing are the young children. Many of whom are ‘owned’ by gangs or landlords. Threatening homelessness, starvation, or physical punishment if daily quotas are not met. One of the most saddening techniques is utilized by the children (ages 4-7). The approach was simple… offer the flower to a tourist, if the balk and don’t pay up. The child would latch onto the leg, with incredible strength. Despite yelling, screaming, and even striking them, they only let go when you have purchased your flower. For Sara Beth and I, this was our first experience with the ‘severe poverty’ we had heard so much about.

Following all this we decided to duck off the streets, find something to eat and try and make a plan. Somewhere in our scheming we realized that we may find what we really wanted in China. Cheap NorthFace, and YES we found it. It was great, the initial price given was literally intended to be a starting point for negotiations. Our first coat was offered at $900HK. We left with 8, and paid $1000HK. Pretty good deal. SO… after buying NorthFace, Longchamps, Chanel, and Prada, we decided that was enough. Back to HK and on to a new adventure.

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