We are beyond blessed! We met Dr. Rush (Tripp's grandfather) and Julia in Tokyo over Easter for an unbelievable spring break! It was absolutely the trip of a lifetime! See for yourself! For more photos from our vacation with Pop and Julia, please go to : http://picasaweb.google.com/cyrilrush/Tokyo#
Travel Diary:
Noooo!! The anticipation of our holiday in Japan is over! I cannot believe how fast our ten days in Japan flew. We started brainstorming this trip last summer, when Tripp and I weren’t still quite sure whether we would actually be in Asia or not. Pop and Julia said they would meet up with us across the planet if we were, and they did!! It was a once in a lifetime trip for sure, and I am so blessed to be able to go (and with such great company!) Here is a recap of our Easter break with them:
Julia planned the whole trip, and did a fantastic job of it. Our planes arrived within five minutes of each other, and Tripp and I were waiting at the Friendly Airport Limousine Counter waving and jumping with excitement when we saw Pop and Julia turn the corner from customs and immigration. From there, it was like we never missed a day, even though we have been separated by a hemisphere.
We got a bus ride into the heart of Tokyo, where we had an absolutely luxurious hotel waiting! The New Otani (http://www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/) was perfect for us. It is situated in a quiet area away from the city center, so you can enjoy the ten acres of immaculate gardens they have in peace and quiet. I am a firm believer that it’s the little things in life, so the first thing I do when I get to a new hotel is check out the toiletries. L’Occitane spa products! Shiseido mouthwash! Pink and green bath salts! Not combs, but actual hairbrushes! The room itself—full mini bar! Flat screen TVs! View of Tokyo! Stocked fridge! Yukatas (a Japanese housecoat that is in the same silhouette as kimono) and slippers and bathrobes!
Pop and Julia had just made the long haul from Honolulu, and Tripp and I woke up in the four a.m. hour to get to the airport, so room service was just the ticket for dinner. This ain’t your average room service. It came wheeled in with fancy silver domes and miniature condiments. Club sandwich for Julia, cheeseburgers for the boys and I tried Penne Arrabiata because it sounded cool. And it tasted great!
That night Tripp and I went to The Sky, a revolving restaurant with a 360 degree view of Tokyo at the top of our hotel. Since we were there for drinks, we weren’t allowed to be on the revolving part (but we got there later in the week for our Little Black Dress Dinner!) I got this incredibly decadent marbled white chocolate martini with chocolate syrup on the inside of the glass. Almost too pretty to drink. Almost.
TOKYO DAY TWO
The next day we regrouped for a Western breakfast in the top of another tower in our hotel. (The hotel has some thirty odd restaurants!) Pop joked with me that he can tell when it’s me writing the blog because I start going on about the food I am eating over here. I can’t help it—- Japan is a foodie’s paradise. We got the best of both worlds, trying new Eastern food and relishing the now rare American meal. The breakfast buffet had a pour-your-own Stoli’s morning drink, and urns of tomato juice and orange juice to make Bloody Mary’s and screwdrivers. Tripp’s dad would have LOVED this! Julia pointed out the salad bar that was open for breakfast… no wonder the Japanese are so fit! I sampled the salad but also, of course, went for some amazing chowder and a build-your-own omelet the chef made on the spot.
Tripp and I took a nice stroll around the aforementioned hotel grounds. They are massive, especially for a city where land is so rare, and we saw brides in traditional kimono! The grounds had koi fish in the ponds, bonsai trees, and carefully maintained designs of plants. At noon, we met Hiromi-san, a highly recommended tour guide to give us a local’s view of her city! She took us via subway (which was an adventure in itself!) to a temple where Pop inhaled incense fumes like the locals and tossed coins into the shrine to appeal to the powers that be to heal his right shoulder pain. That was hilarious to watch.
We were lucky enough to catch a tea ceremony, where the girls with the painted faces and full costume made an elaborate show. The rest of the afternoon we marveled at the unbelievably perfect cherry blossoms everywhere. We were actually in Tokyo on the PRIME weekend for cherry blossom parties. Along the waterfront, locals were out in full force picnicking and enjoying the scenery. The atmosphere was festive and the weather crisp, not at all muggy like Hong Kong.
After sampling soy rice crackers from a food vendor and getting the Japan Rail Passes situated, we made our way to the New Sanno Hotel. This was a really cool experience for me, because it was my first trip to a US Military Hotel. It is on Federal property in the middle of Tokyo! Everything happens in US dollars, and there was a commissary on the grounds. It was fascinating to experience the sense of American community and see the troops stationed in Japan. After cocktails, we headed into an intimate dining area that was the fanciest meal I have ever had!
The booths had velvet curtains to pull for a private dinner, like in the movies or something! We five of us (Hiromi-san included) had the center round candlelit table. We were offered bread to start. (yes!) Tomato filled pastry, olive foccacia, french baguette, walnut wheat rolls, and several other varieties proffered on a tray by a terrific waiter with good English skills and an even better sense of humor. The service was impeccable . The back waiters silently refilled my glass and appeared like ghosts when they felt we might need something. We started with an exquisite salad in homemade raspberry vinaigrette with avocado on top. The dinner was relaxed, even in such a formal atmosphere, with great conversation and completely delicious food. Tripp went for the first steak he’s had in months, and I chose the Alaskan halibut. Tender white melt-in-your-mouth fish with wilted spinach and cream sauce. Guess what was on top? CAVIAR! Can you believe that?! I tried it for the first time in my life and it was quite nice, actually! We were sinfully stuffed at the end of our mains, but the “chocolate bomb brulee” and New York cheesecake looked irresistible so we split them between the table. Fresh raspberry, strawberry, and blueberry garnish. The attention to detail!! It was the best day, and Tripp and I are going to take turns telling our friends back home about the rest of the trip!
TOKYO
Hiromi-san came with us another day and took us ALL OVER the city! The world's most densely populated city has excellent public transportation systems. By the third day we were ready for a change of pace and we took to the streets in a taxi.
Hiromi-san joined us for dinner with Julia's dear friend from when she was stationed here in Japan! She brought her precious grandchild along and was the most well behaved child Tripp and I have ever met (and I have alot of well behaved students!) It was really nice getting to know them. We dined at Trader Vic's, which had a Polynesian feel to the decor and menu. I had Calcutta Chicken Curry, which was slightly sweet with nutmeg and cinnamon, and I loved that it came with all sorts of condiments-- sunflower seeds, raisins, shredded coconut, and nuts that I could add at my leisure.
Between the days in Tokyo, we saw loads of things... traditional shopping malls and grocery stores, the Tokyo Tower (the tallest free-standing steel structure in the world), the famed luxury Ginza strip where Chanel has a gourmet restaurant and Apple's store is seven levels, the Meiji Jingu Shrine (and a traditional bridal party there!), Harajuku where I cannot even describe the packed sardine crowd and the crazy getups the local teens dress in on the weekends, and Shinjuku Station where two million people pass through each day!
I loved seeing the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. It's inspired by the Notre Dame in Paris and is the fourth tallest building in Japan. On the 45th floor there are two observation galleries and the panoramic view is fantastic. Really cool how many helicopter landing pads you could see on top of the skyscrapers.
Monday night we had our Little Black Dress dinner where you can guess what Julia and I wore. We went to the Sky restaurant at the top of our hotel, the amazing revolving dining experience that gives you a full 360 degree rotation, bird's eye view of the city. It was so, so fantastic! They market it as "build-your-own-buffet". The chefs stand at the ready to create teppanyaki, sushi, tempura, and grilled meats that you choose at each of their stations. There was all kinds of other incredible foods, both Japanese and Western, and a dangerous dessert bar. I tried foie-gras for the first time in my life! We sampled all kinds of new foods and had Pop wielding the chopsticks like a champ.
After another mind blowing meal (I promise you, I am living on grilled cheese and plain noodles back in Hong Kong) Tripp and I explored the nightlife in Tokyo. We went to a jazz cafe that was completely local and enjoyed that! We headed to a British style pub to catch the Red Sox/Yankees game (which the hotel had dubbed over in Japanese)but it couldn't be found on the TV, we settled on Arsenal soccer and an intense UNO battle.
KAMAKURA
Tuesday we took a day trip to Kamakura (get off at the stop labeled Hase, not Kamakura, if you are doing this itinerary). Before leaving we took Pop on a tour of the gorgeous gardens around the hotel in Tokyo. I love the photos that turned out from there.
Our first stop in Kamakura was the 100 yen store, which Julia and I loved. It's the dollar store of Japan. Not much else was 100 yen in that country, let me tell you.
Hase-Dera Temple was our next order of business. And WOW! What a magnificent place. It's a beautiful temple with a view of the sea if you walk up to the top. Every stereotypical picture in your mind's eye of Japan was here. Bonsai trees, rows of Buddha statues, a golden statue of the Protector of Evil Spirits, fully blooming cherry blossom trees, lots and lots of beautiful flowers, the uniquely shaped pagodas and curved roofs. On the lower level there was a cave! It was made for a teeny person though; I was so tall and the ceiling was very low. It was dark and dripping inside. I don't really know how many caves I've been to in my life; there can't be many. There was a statue of Benzaiten with eight arms (the only female among the seven lucky gods of Japan) and 16 children carved into the stone wall in the cave.
You'll never guess but Tripp spotted a Japanese guy in a Clemson T-shirt!! I had to go over and speak. What a SMALL world! This guy is from Japan, and lived in Columbia, SC while doing an exchange program several years ago. He lived with a host family from Lexington who are major Clemson fans, hence the shirt. He actually met his Japanese wife in Columbia-- she was doing the same program! The really crazy thing is that he was at the temple to show his former host family around! So I met them-- a precious couple, with their grown son, who is stationed in Okinawa with his family, and their personable grandson who is a middle schooler at White Knoll! We ran into them later in the day touring at another spot and it was so neat to faces from home and hear the accent. I told the woman to eat some Hudson's BBQ for me.
Kamakura
We also checked out the Great Buddha, another Japanese National Treasure. It was cooler than the one on Lantau in Hong Kong, because that one was only finished in the past decade or two. This one in Japan was started in 1252! Please see photo of Dr. Rush with the statue, he wants people to guess which one is the Buddha!
SHIMODA BEACH
I must say this was my favorite place in Japan! After the urban, international feel of Tokyo, Shimoda Beach was a unique haven and fabulous "getaway" on our vacation. Pop and Julia expertly navigated the way to Tokyo Station, where we found a perfect French cafe in the middle of the train station! One pain au chocolat and cafe latte and I was on the train heading to the beach!
The picture I love of Dr. Rush sitting with the Japanese men with his head thrown back laughing was taken here. I think the fact that these men scooted over and motioned Pop to join them was symbolic because of the generation which they grew up in taught them they were not to like one another.
The view on the train was absolutely breathtaking. The Japanese countryside was beautiful, no wonder our friend Tracy stayed two years teaching! The villages by the sea, the cherry trees, the mountains... plus it was a stormy day, so it was the perfect time to travel and watch the world pass by from the comfort of the train car.
Shimoda Beach
We slept on traditional Japanese futons, which I LOVED! The tatami mat straw floor, the rice paper sliding doors, and the seats on the floor... it was all so authentic!
We were lucky enough to get a dinner seating at Phoenix without a reservation. This was another incredible meal with a staggering view of the palm trees and the cliff the leads to the rocky shore of the beach. The French restaurant was so legit, the Japanese menu was subtitled in French! We finagled through and had just an incredible multi course meal. I mean the desserts were so delicately presented, Tripp is planning on getting the photos blown up and put in his kitchen one day (mmm lemon and strawberry sorbet!). The place used fresh local produce so the salad was perfect and the potato soup to die for. The perfect accompaniment to the cold weather. Yummy grilled shrimp in vinaigrette for me and Tripp loved his duck with mandarin orange sauce.
One highlight of Shimoda for me was putting on my yukata and slippers and heading to the Ladies Spa. It seems like a wooden hot tub at first, but the water is actually being pumped up from the earth. It was a true thermal hot spring. There was an indoor and outdoor facility. I had the place to myself, and I cannot describe the calm sensation you have in the steaming hot spring looking out over the beach with the wind blowing like crazy. The water was hot and the air was cold, so it was perfect. You couldn't hear anything or anyone except the sea and only see the outline of the mountains and the reflection of the sea. So peaceful. (Written by SB even though it says Tripp.)
This is a traditional Japanese bed. They're affectionately referred to as 'futons', but we know what this is . . . did someone say campout in the living room?
KYOTO
What's not to love about Kyoto? Some of these photos we took when Tripp and I went for a morning walk-- there was a Shinto shrine right down the street from the hotel! Our hotel location was fantastic. It was right down the street from la Cantina, a really simple, really good place for Italian. (Don't know why there is a Spanish name?) Chicken confit for Tripp and penne gorgonzola for me. Julia says Japan does Italian really well, and she was right.
Kyoto had many "pachinko" parlors, which looked alot like the slot machines in Macau. We overheard an American couple on a bus with us talking about their experience in one-- they stuck some yen in and all the sudden the machine is going nuts and they are winning lots of money by pushing random buttons! They had no idea how to play! One night tried to figure it out, but the room was too smoky and the bid too high.
Instead we found a great local spot tucked away in an alley where the chef made Tripp okonomiyaki (Japanese pizza) and yaisoba (Japanese fried noodles) for me! We decided I had the better option.
Kyoto
The hotel in Kyoto had a Starbucks in the lobby, which I note because today is Free Cup Day in Hong Kong. If you bring your own mug, you get a complimentary tall cup of the house blend at any Starbucks in the city. I think that's karma's way of thanking us for visiting twice a day in Kyoto. I've been to Starbucks in all corners of the world, but this one was especially delicious. Have I told my readers I am collecting coffee mugs from Starbucks of all the countries we visit? I think it will be a practical thing I'll use everyday. Good thing Amelia is coming in a month to take them back for me.
The last night we stayed in Kyoto we had a traditional Japanese dinner. This included the raw beef that comes to the table with a tiny grill. I don't know the proper word but there is a flame, almost like Sterno, Pop says, that you cook the meat on at your table. We also tried sushi and tempura. The tempura came with a variety of salts to season the fried pieces, like green colored green tea salt.
HIROSHIMA
Certainly one of the more somber moments in our adventure came in Hiroshima. We took a quick Bullet Train ride from Kyoto and spent a
few hours touring one of history's darker moments. The experience, even today, is quite moving. As you enter the World Peace Plaza you can't help but quieting down and observing the area. Standing along the river is the Hiroshima Hall. Today it is designated on the subway signs as the 'Dome.' The name comes from the stripped steel dome that sits atop the remnants of the blasted building. Amazing after 65 years, this building is untouched, and still leaves an eerie reminder of what once was. We learned that the bomb's target was the Hiroshima Bridge, which was my vantage point for taking these photos. Today, obviously, you'd never know, because as I turned 180 degrees I was greeted by a big BIG city, built very much like any U.S. city.After walking the river front we came to the Hiroshima World Peace Plaza. The Plaza serves as a memorial, but also as a platform for advocates of a nuclear-free world. It's message today is that of peace and as a reminder of what kind of devastation is possible.
In the photos below you'll find: photo 2 (clockwise) a watch stopped dead at 8:15 (the moment of impact); a plaster wall with the windowframe's shadow fried into it; the Dome on the Hiroshima river, and radio equipment thought to be from the Enola Gay, the plane that dropped the A-bomb; photo 3: the 'red ball' you see is thought to be the exact place the bomb was detonated.
KYOTO
Kyoto was the last leg of our trip. It's not just the name of the former sushi and hibachi grill on Beltline Blvd! We saw so many historical sites, it's hard to keep track! The pictures with the large gold pagoda in them were taken at the Rokuon-Ji Temple, or the Golden Pavilion. The grounds are fairly large and encompass a belfry, Chinese style gate, priest's living quarters, the abbott's chamber, and several teahouses. The focal points though, is the Pavilion itself and surrounding ponds with islands. The first pond is Mirror Pond and a few steps later is a smaller pond with a small stone pagoda. The walk through the grounds was beautiful and reminded me of a fall day.
We also visited the Kyoto Imperial Palace and Nijo Castle. I loved the castle because of the Nightingale floors in the corrider. They are designed with springs so when a person walks across, the floorboard with cramp and squeak. That way, the royals could not be surprised and hear approaching people in their home. We had to take our shoes off to tour the grounds (Japanese custom); if you get the chance to go, bring along socks!! The ceilings and walls were handpainted and to preserve the art, there was no electricity in the building, as well as no photography (which is a shame for my readers, it was really cool to see inside!) In order to keep enought light inside, the walls were made of rice paper and that actually protects the interior from the elements! I also thought it was cool that Nijo had both an inner and outer moat.
NARA
We also visited the Kyoto Imperial Palace and Nijo Castle. I loved the castle because of the Nightingale floors in the corrider. They are designed with springs so when a person walks across, the floorboard with cramp and squeak. That way, the royals could not be surprised and hear approaching people in their home. We had to take our shoes off to tour the grounds (Japanese custom); if you get the chance to go, bring along socks!! The ceilings and walls were handpainted and to preserve the art, there was no electricity in the building, as well as no photography (which is a shame for my readers, it was really cool to see inside!) In order to keep enought light inside, the walls were made of rice paper and that actually protects the interior from the elements! I also thought it was cool that Nijo had both an inner and outer moat.
NARA
While in Kyoto, Julia booked us a great side tour with Sunrise Tours and we took a chartered bus to Nara! Nara was the capital of Japan from 710 to 784 and the "old city feel" there has been well preserved. To give you an idea of just how old it is, this year marks the 1300th anniversary as the previous capital of Japan!
We went to Tōdai-ji, the Eastern Great Temple. The Great Buddha Hall there is the largest wooden building in the world and houses the world's largest statue of the Buddha Vairocana. There were tourists and worshippers there together. The inside of the great wooden building was filled with inscense and the detail of the Buddha and other statues were very intricate. In true Asian fashion, there was a massive lineup inside for people to crawl through a wooden column. I will never understand the Asian's need to join in any line they see! There is an octagonal lantern right outside the temple that is the third "National Treasure" on the grounds.
The craziest thing about this UNESCO site was the Sika deer (regarded as messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion) that cruise among the tourists, completely wild yet seemingly domesticated. They interact peacefully, but I felt really bad for them because they are being overfed by the hordes of people that buy the deer food from the stalls. They have a nutritional problem, so they had mangy coats, but they were so fun to see! Nara
We went to Tōdai-ji, the Eastern Great Temple. The Great Buddha Hall there is the largest wooden building in the world and houses the world's largest statue of the Buddha Vairocana. There were tourists and worshippers there together. The inside of the great wooden building was filled with inscense and the detail of the Buddha and other statues were very intricate. In true Asian fashion, there was a massive lineup inside for people to crawl through a wooden column. I will never understand the Asian's need to join in any line they see! There is an octagonal lantern right outside the temple that is the third "National Treasure" on the grounds.
The craziest thing about this UNESCO site was the Sika deer (regarded as messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion) that cruise among the tourists, completely wild yet seemingly domesticated. They interact peacefully, but I felt really bad for them because they are being overfed by the hordes of people that buy the deer food from the stalls. They have a nutritional problem, so they had mangy coats, but they were so fun to see! Nara
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